Riccardo Tisci's debut collection for Burberry, showcased at the Autumn/Winter 2019 London Fashion Week, was a highly anticipated event. The industry watched with bated breath as the Italian designer, known for his dramatic and often provocative designs at Givenchy, took the reins of the quintessentially British brand. The resulting Burberry AW19 Vogue Runway show was a complex tapestry woven with threads of heritage, modernity, and Tisci's signature gothic romanticism, leaving a lasting impact on the fashion world. This article will delve deep into the collection, exploring its key elements, influences, and lasting legacy within the context of Burberry's history and Tisci's design philosophy.
Burberry Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear: A New Era Begins
The Burberry Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection was not merely a presentation of clothes; it was a statement. Tisci, inheriting a brand steeped in tradition, deftly navigated the challenge of respecting its heritage while injecting a fresh, contemporary perspective. The collection’s palette was a masterclass in subtle sophistication. Modern daywear and formalwear flowed down the runway in a symphony of taupe, camel, caramel, fawn, and every pale and interesting Pantone in between. These muted tones, reminiscent of the English countryside, formed the foundation upon which Tisci built his vision.
The show itself was a spectacle of carefully orchestrated contrasts. The muted palette was punctuated by flashes of vibrant color, typically used sparingly in bold accessories or statement pieces. This strategic use of color highlighted the inherent elegance of the neutral tones, preventing them from becoming monotonous. The silhouettes, too, were a study in duality. Classic Burberry trench coats were reimagined with modern twists, featuring unexpected draping, asymmetrical cuts, and bold graphic prints. These were juxtaposed with more avant-garde pieces, showcasing Tisci's signature gothic aesthetic. Think sharp tailoring, exaggerated shoulders, and intricate embellishments, all subtly integrated into the overall narrative.
One of the most striking aspects of the collection was the masterful blend of textures. Luxurious cashmere mingled with rugged leather, delicate lace contrasted with heavy wool, creating a sense of depth and complexity. This textural interplay added another layer of sophistication, reflecting the multifaceted nature of the collection itself. The use of signature Burberry checks, reimagined and recontextualized, was crucial. They appeared not as mere branding, but as integral design elements, woven into the fabric of the garments, adding a subtle nod to the brand's heritage without feeling overly nostalgic.
Burberry Pre-Collection: Laying the Groundwork
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